Tibet: Lhasa Part 2, Apr 2024

While the political and religious center is the Potala Palace, the spiritual heart of Tibet lies with the 1,300-year-old Jokhang Temple on Barkhor Square.  Countless pilgrims prostrate themselves outside this temple.  Constructed in the 7th century AD during the reign of King Songsten Gampo, it is said that the temple was built for his two brides, Princess Wencheng of China and Princess Bhrikuti of Nepal and houses countless Buddhist artifacts.  Housed here is the most venerated Buddhist artifact in all of Tibet, the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni Buddha at age 12, which Princess Wencheng brought from Han China over 1,300 years ago.  It is believed that only three statues of Sakyamuni were allowed to be sculpted during his lifetime.  The first one of him at age 8, the second at age 12 when he was still a prince, and the third when he became an adult.  Legend has it that the original Jokhang Temple was small and built especially to house the Sakyamuni statue brought by Princess Wencheng.  But Princess Bhrikuti asked the king to also build a Jokhang for her as well.  In the end a much larger complex was built and then after multiple renovations over the centuries, the complex is the Jokhang Temple we see today.  The temple is a four-storey wood complex with a golden top and a mixture of Tang, Tibetan, and Nepalese architectural styles.  The pilgrims come in the mornings while access to tourists is allowed in the afternoons.  There is a website for booking your visit.

Jokhang Temple

Pilgrims prostrating outside Jokhang Temple

Pilgrims outside Jokhang Temple

Jokhang Temple

Courtyard inside Jokhang Temple where photography is allowed.

Jokhang Temple

Beautiful murals inside Jokhang Temple

Prayer wheels inside Jokhang Temple

Jokhang Temple

Roof of Jokhang Temple

Barkhor Street, where Jokhang Temple is located, is hailed as the “Holy Road” by local Tibetans and is one of the oldest and most important kora roads in Tibet.  Devout pilgrims follow the ancient Barkhor Kora or circumambulation route in a clockwise direction around the exterior or Jokhang Temple.  This holy ritual is called kora and is a way for pilgrims to accumulate merits.  While some pilgrims spin their prayer wheels and chant mantras, others make prostrations while moving clockwise around the temple.  There are four sangkangs, two-meter high conical incense burners, marking the four corners of the Barkhor Circuit with two in front of Jokhang and two behind.  Barkhor Street is not only a pilgrim circuit, it also has a marketplace and numerous restaurants and tea houses.

Pilgrims on Barkhor Street

Pilgrims on Barkhor Street

Pilgrims on Barkhor Street
There are two steles in front of Jokhang Temple.  The northern stele with a turtle atop is inscribed with the Sino-Tibetan Treaty of 822.  The southern stele was erected in 1793 to commemorate the victims of a smallpox epidemic and over the centuries locals have carved out chunks of the stele believed to have protective medicinal properties.
Steles in front of Jokhang Temple
Pilgrim making prostrations while moving clockwise around Jokhang Temple.

Pilgrim making prostrations while moving clockwise around Jokhang Temple.

Pilgrims on Barkhor Street

On the northern section of the Barkhor Circuit is the Mani Lhakhang Chapel that houses the Barkhor Big Prayer Wheel that spins constantly.

Mani Lhakhang Chapel

Prayer wheels outside Mani Lhakhang Chapel

Prayer wheels outside Mani Lhakhang Chapel

On the eastern section of the Barkhor Circuit is Dongsu Lhamo Wall with the embossment of goddess Dongsu Lhamo who is the daughter of the “Auspicious Goddess”, Palden Lhamo.  Legend has it that goddess Dongsu Lhamo was very lazy and was driven out by her mother. She had to rely on begging for tsampa (roasted barley flour) and yak butter here so until today pilgrims still spread Tsampa and yak butter in front of her statue on this wall.

Barkhor Street

Stay tuned for more from Tibet!

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