Henan: Mount Laojun, Sep 2024

By Beatrice Wong
December 14, 2024
8:30 pm
One Comment

Henan, which translates to “south of the river”, was historically known as the Central Plains and is one of the cradles of Chinese civilization. Of the Eight Ancient Capitals of China, four can be found in Henan: Luoyang, Kaifeng, Anyang, and Zhengzhou. Taoism originated here and the first Buddhist temple was established here by the government. Many ancient inventions such as the seismograph, armillary sphere, paper making, printing, and the compass originated here. The main purpose of my trip to Henan is to visit Mount Laojun and the Longmen Grottoes.

Mount Laojun (老君山), about 2.5 hours southwest of Luoyang, is historically the retreat for Laozi Li Er, the founder of Taoism and the author of the Tao Te Ching. Legend has it that Laozi, honored by Taoism as Taishang Laojun, retired here riding to the Hangu Pass on his green ox. Originally called Jingshi Mountain (Emperor Taizong changed the name to Laojun Mountain), it is considered the number one fairy mountain in the world. Laojun Mountain has a history of more than 2,000 years of Taoist culture with many temples built during the Northern Wei Dynasty. The 16 temples on the mountain include Taiqing Palace (太清宫), Shifang Courtyard (十方院), Lingguan Hall (灵官殿), Lincu Hall (淋醋殿), Guanyin Hall (观音殿), Laojun Temple (老君庙) etc. In the middle of the mountain is a lookout at the peaks and forests forming a painting called “Ten Miles of Painting Screen.” There are two cable cars as well as escalators taking you to the gilded roof pavilion at the top. Up on the top is an Iron Roof Laojun Temple (老君庙) commemorating the ancient sage Laozi. The mountain is a celebrated Taoist sanctuary whose peak is often shrouded in a sea of clouds and is especially mesmerizing during sunrise and sunset. I was told that this is the only 5A sight in China where foreigners are not allowed due to military presence. There are quite a few hotels in the middle of the mountain as well as the top. I stayed at modern Old Words Laojun Mountain Hotel (老君山吾千言) in a room with the view of the Jingding Golden Pavilion at the top. They offer VIP transfers where a butler will pick you up from the bottom of the mountain and you can skip all the lines for the cable cars which I think is already worth the RMB5,000+ nightly charge. Staying up on the top lets you enjoy the breathtaking sunrises and sunsets that Laojun Mountain has to offer, especially after the crowds have left.

My balcony at the Old Words Laojun Mountain Hotel (老君山吾千言)

Old Words Laojun Mountain Hotel (老君山吾千言) gilded pavilion view room

The red buidling is the Old Words Laojun Mountain Hotel (老君山吾千言) and as you can see there are only 2 balcony rooms with a view of the gilded pavillion at the top.

The first cable car drops you off at the “Middle Heaven Gate” with a statue of Laozi. From here you can take a second cable car (Fengling Cableway) or walk up the stairs to the top.

After the second cable car (Fengling Cableway) is a path with unparalleled views of the peaks and forests forming a painting and hence called “Ten Miles of Painting Screen.”

The start of the “Ten Miles of Painting Screen” after the upper station of the Fenglin Cableway.

“Ten Miles of Painting Screen”

“Ten Miles of Painting Screen”

“Ten Miles of Painting Screen”

At the end of the “Ten Miles of Painting Screen” path, you will arrive at the group of temples at the top of Laojun Mountain.

If you walk up from “Middle Heaven Gate”, you will arrive at the “South Heaven Gate” with the Laojun Temple in front.

“South Heaven Gate”

If you walk up from “Middle Heaven Gate”, you will arrive at the “South Heaven Gate” with the Laojun Temple in front.

The iron roof Laojun Temple (老君庙) commemorating the ancient sage, Laozi, was first built in the Northern Wei Dynasty.

Worshippers burning offerings in front of Laojun Temple

Lay of the land at the top of Laojun Mountain.

Daodefu (道德府), one of the core buildings on the Laojun Mountain golden summit, was originally named Laozi Tower until Emperor Wan Li of the Ming Dynasty renamed it Daodefu after storing the Taoist Tripitaka here.

Daodefu (道德府)

In front of Daodefu (道德府) is a large sceptor designed with dragons that everyone rubs for good luck.

Laojun Mountain golden summit

Laojun Mountain golden summit

Crossing the bridge from Daodefu is the highlight of Laojun Mountain, the Jingding Golden Pavilion.

The Jingding Golden Pavilion

The Jingding Golden Pavilion

There are two smaller temples (Jade Emperor Peak 玉皇頂 and Liangbao Terrace 亮寶台) each on a hill accessible by climbing a long flight of stone steps.

View of Liangbao Terrace 亮寶台 from Jade Emperor Peak 玉皇頂

Laojun Mountain

Laojun Mountain

Sunset at Laojun Mountain

Sunset at Laojun Mountain

Sunset at Laojun Mountain

Every evening around 7pm, the Jingding Golden Pavilion lights up for about 30-40 mins and then again at 3:30-5:30am for those who do the night climb up to the top.

Every evening around 7pm, the Jingding Golden Pavilion lights up for about 30-40 mins and then again at 3:30-5:30am.

Every evening around 7pm, the Jingding Golden Pavilion lights up for about 30-40 mins and then again at 3:30-5:30am.

Climbed up to Jade Emperor Peak at 4am to claim a prime photo spot for sunrise at Laojun Mountain

Sunrise at Laojun Mountain with Liangbao Terrace 亮寶台 in the foreground, photographed from Jade Emperor Peak 玉皇頂

Sunrise at Laojun Mountain

Sunrise at Laojun Mountain

Sunrise at Laojun Mountain

View of Laojun Mountain group of temples from Jade Emperor Peak 玉皇頂

I have been told that the weather up on Laojun Mountain is quite unpredictable with the peak often shrouded in fog, so I feel extremely lucky to have experienced both a mesmerizing sunset as well as a beautiful sunrise the next morning.

Next post will be on the first Buddhist temple in China, White Horse Temple. Stay tuned!

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