Nepal: Kathmandu, Nov 2024

By Beatrice Wong
February 21, 2025
8:00 pm
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The ancient cities of Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur in the Kathmandu Valley were once independent states ruled by the Malla kings from the 12th to 18th centuries. There are 7 UNESCO World Heritage sites in the valley as well as hundreds of Newari monuments and temples. The Newars were the original inhabitants of the valley whose craft skills were not only championed by the Malla kings but even valued by the Mongol rulers of 18th century China. The UNESCO Kathmandu Durbar (royal palace) Square was the heart of the old Kathmandu city as well as the historic palace of the Malla kings and later the Shahs. This is the largest of the three Durbar Squares of Kathmandu Valley. Also known as Basantapur Durbar and Hanuman Dhoka, this was the royal residence until 1896 after which it was used for important ceremonies and royal events such as the coronation of the kings. The historic square located in front of the palace complex was used for ceremonies and events and there are over 50 intricately carved pagoda-style temples in the square earning the square the name “the Museum of Temples”. The outer complex consists of 16th century temples adorned with intricately carved facades characteristic of Newar architecture. The central square is surrounded by palace complexes, among them a 9-storey palace called Nautale Durbar or Basantapur Durbar built by Prithvi Narayan Shah to commemorate the Unification of Nepal. Also here is the 3-storey Kumari Chouk or Kumari Bahal temple of the living goddess, a young girl considered to be the living embodiment of the Hindu Goddess Durga. There are also many museums such as Kathmandu Museum and the Tribhuvan Museum housing historic Nepali artifacts from the different dynasties.

The Hanuman Dhoka (door or gate in Nepali) Palace gets its name from the stone Hindu monkey god statue, Hanuman, that guards its main entryway. The royal family lived in this palace until 1886 after which they moved to Narayanhiti Palace. Mul Chok, dedicated to Taleju Bhawani who is the royal goddess of the Malla family, is a courtyard surrounded by two storey buildings used for religious rites. Mohan Chok was the residential courtyard of the Malla kings and it was mandatory for a Malla king to be born here in order to become heir to the throne. The Tribhuwan Museum here exhibits many stone carvings, jewel-studded ornaments and thrones, weapons, coins, etc as well as King Tribhuwan’s bedroom, study, and personal effects. Also housed in the Hanuman Dhoka Palace is the Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum with artifacts from the Shah kings until they were overthrown in 2006.

Hanuman Dhoka

Hanuman Dhoka

Nasal Chowk of Hanuman Dhoka

Nasal Chowk of Hanuman Dhoka

Hanuman Dhoka

Inside Nasal Chowk is Narasingha, a black and silver statue of the incarnation of Vishnu. The sculpture depicts a brutal scene of the man-lion tearing a demon apart by hand. Legends has it that Vishnu taking the form of Narsingha to destroy the demon, which was immune to any death brought by man, animal, or weapons. Vishnu pulled the demon onto his lap and disemboweled it.

Nasal Chowk of Hanuman Dhoka

Nassal Chowk of Hanuman Dhoka

Hanuman Dhoka

Hanuman Dhoka

Taleju Temple, inside Hanuman Dhoka, was built in 1564 and dedicated to the Hindu goddess, Taleju Bhawani, who was the royal goddess of the Malla Dynasty. The temple stands on a 12-stepped base and escaped with only minor damage in the 2015 earthquake. The layout of the temple resembles a cosmic mandala with the roof covered by gilt copper sheets supported by carved wooden struts depicting a variety of deities. It is said that Taleju’s esoteric mantra ensured uninterrupted royal rule and was passed from each king to his successor only when death appeared imminent. The temple is only opened once a year during the Dashain festival.

Taleju Temple

Kathmandu Durbar Square

Kathmandu Durbar Square

Kathmandu Durbar Square

Kotilingeshwar Mahadev Temple on the left and Nil Barahi Temple on the right.

Kathmandu Durbar Square

Trailokya Mohan Narayan Temple

Shiva Parvati Temple

Mahendreshwor Temple

Mahendreshwor Temple

Kaal Bhairava, the god of time and death, was considered to be the judge, jury, and executioner. Bhairava translates to “frightful” or “terrible” is a manifestation of Lord Shiva. Locals believe that anyone accused of committing a crime will have to stand before Kaal Bhairava for judgment. In Nepal, every significant shrine or pilgrimage destination is guarded by Bhairavas. In Hanuman Dhoka in Kathmandu, the 12-feet 6-armed Bhairava sculpture stepping over a dead body holding a decapitated head in his hand is said to have been sculpted from a single block of stone. King Pratap Malla built this temple of Kaal Bhairava in the 18th century to house the Bhairava statue found in the jungles.

Kaal Bhairava, the god of time and death

Kaal Bhairava, the god of time and death

Closeby lies the giant sculpture of Swet Bhairava, the white Bhairava, also known as Haath dyo by the locals. This Bhairava sculpture lies behind a wooden latticed window and is only brought out once a year during the Indra Jatra Festival. Also displayed during the Indra Jatra Festival is the sky blue colored Akash Bhairava who is the protector of children.

Swet Bhairava, the white Bhairava

Kotilingeshwar Mahadev Temple

Kathmandu Durbar Square

Kathmandu Durbar Square

The 17th century Kumari Temple is the official residence of the Living Goddess Kumari who is said to be the living incarnation of the royal goddess Taleju Bhawani, a manifestation of Durga. Legend has it that goddess Taleju would often visit the palace to play cards with the kings. Due to a conflict with King Jayaprakash Malla, the goddess got upset and disappeared. After asking for forgiveness, she appeared in the king’s dreams asking him to choose a young Kumari (literally “virgin”) for her to possess so that the people could continue to worship her. The Kumari girl is selected from a Newar Buddhist Shakya clan and once she attains puberty, she loses the divine statue and a new Kumari will be selected. It is said that the potential candidates are placed into a dark room with freshly severed buffalo heads and dancing men wearing demon masks. Whoever is not afraid is the next reincarnation of Taleju. Once selected, she will move into Kumari Temple where her feet will never touch the ground and will only leave the temple during festivals. Dating back to the 17th century, the selection process of a Kumari resembles that of Tibetan Lamas. During the vibrant Indra Jatra Festival, the Kumari is brought out of the temple and paraded around the city in her golden palanquin.

Kumari Temple

Kumari Temple

Each day the Kumari makes appearances from the top center window between 9-11am and 4-6pm. To the right is a photo of the present Kumari from a postcard they sell at the entrance. We are not allowed to take photos of the Kumari.